8/4 Mahogany planks were ripped into 5mm thick strips. This is
the same process used on the hull. 33 strips were used. This is
half as many as were needed for the sides of the hull.
The centerline of the boat was decided to be a gap (rather than
a plank). The centerline was marked and sheet metal screws were
inserted along the line to act as a reference and later as clamps.
Spacers were made by ripping 4mm plywood scraps into 2/3"
wide strips and cutting them to ~ 1.5-2" lengths.
Each piece was placed on the deck, spaced and then marked for the
cut angle. The cut was roughed out and then trimmed on the disk
and belt sander with a 60 grit disk and / or 80 grit belt. The work
The forward most pieces had straight cuts. As we progressed down
the side, the cuts became curved. Cut off straight but long by 1/8"
and the sand to the curve for final fit.
The pieces are temporarily fastened in place until a suitable
number for gluing are assembled. In the bow this was 8 on each side
of centerline. Basically you want to have enough for a good run
at gluing, but reserve the areas at the outside edges which will
have long nearly parallel cuts for a second pass.
When doing the assembly and clamping, the screws are at 12-16"
spacing. After the entire area is in place, additional rows of screws
are added so that final distance between screws is 6-8". Remove
the spacers at this time.
The weather is finally nice and we were able to do much of the
planking with the boat pushed outdoors. David is adding more clamp
screws. The heat of the sun helps the glue cure quickly and allows
for 2 glue-ups in a day.
The rear edge is clamped with hand spring clamps.
Remove the screws (and any forgotten spacers) as the glue is at
the rubbery stage. DO not let it fully harden or the screws may
be locked in place and the washers glued to the top. You do not
want to risk tear-out of the faces or edges. If any tear-out occurs,
use super glue to put the sliver back in place.